May 2024 Newsletter

PO Box 2682, Olympia WA 98507-2682

www.olympiabonsai.org *** https://www.facebook.com/OlympiaBonsaiClub/

APRIL MEETING, April 11 – LEE CHEATLE

For our April 11 meeting, we will host Lee Cheatle from the Bonsai Society of Portland (BSOP).  Lee has been passionately doing bonsai since 1994 and will tell you that he was “born to teach.” He was the BSOP President for four years and the VP for Programs for four years. In 2012 he was instrumental in creating the Mentorship 101 program and he continues to chair BSOP’s exceptional Mentorship program. For several years now, he has been a proponent of the new “American” style bonsai, a movement which is taking hold in our country. 

For a teaser, here’s a Youtube video of an interview with Lee done in 2021.  You’ll probably want to skip the preliminaries and go directly to his interview starting at 3:15 minutes and the tour of his garden starting at 6 minutes.

(Reminder, the Lacey Senior Center also requests that club members don’t arrive too early, so that there is time for previous users of the room to leave the premises.  Thank you everyone.)

APRIL WORKSHOP, April 20

Spring is here!  Bring your trees to the North Olympia Fire Station at 5046 Boston Harbor Rd NE and we’ll work on them together.  Last week, Joe and Tom were there to assist.  

Matt C is our new workshop coordinator, so please contact him by email or by phone at 360-480-0420 if you want to help with opening and closing.  Or would like to conduct a skills workshop.

Lacey Cultural Celebration

Thanks to Darrell A, we had a very successful display at the Lacey Cultural Celebration in March. Also thanks to all those who helped out during the day and also those who brought bonsai trees to display.  Volunteers were Matt C, Alex W, Kent R, Rick C, Corey M, Joe K, Dennis B, Jack W, Tom B and Darrell A.

We had lots of interest in bonsai and, hopefully, we’ll pick up some new members. We had club flyers that interested people picked up, giving out over 30 flyers.

Upcoming Events

The Beginners Workshop is a fantastic chance to get introduced to many of the facets of making Bonsai. Two slots are left for the class of 10 participants; email OlympiaBonsaiClub@gmail.com if you are interested. . Participants will enjoy 3 evenings of instruction and hands-on work, and leave the class with a styled, potted juniper bonsai of their own.  Details:

• Cost: $50 (please bring this to the April club meeting or contact Kent, Cell: 971-236-3641)

• Dates: May 23rd, 24th, and 30th (tentatively)

• Location: North Olympia Fire Station (tentatively)

• Wire: Provided

• Tools: Available to borrow

The 5th annual Bonsai Fest at the Puget Sound Bonsai Museum is scheduled for May 11 and 12.  Coinciding with Bonsai Fest, the museum offers a new special exhibition for your kids and grandkids, Small Talk.  The exhibition combines 41 living bonsai trees with anime-inspired illustrations of bonsai, emojis, and text-like exchanges, bridging the gap between textbook STEM education and real-world fun. Small Talk will run through early November.

The mystery of fertilizing and other thoughts, Joe K 

Before getting into the newsletter topic, it’s important to acknowledge the volunteers that keep this club going.  This month I would like to do a shout out to Daryll A and the other members who took the time to put their trees on display for the Cultural Celebration at St Martins.  I would also like to acknowledge Jonathon for donating 10 mature English Boxwoods to the club, which will probably be for a workshop down the road.  

When I first got into this hobby some 30+ years ago it was not difficult to find what we called stock to work on and develop into a Bonsai. At the time, it seemed to take about 5 years from the time one started working on the tree to when you could reasonably say you had a Bonsai and the reason for that was because most of the stock we found was immature and not well structured.  It seemed that everyone had an inspiration tree which was much more developed.  I had a couple and after a few years I made the mistake of parting with them which I now regret, but I did manage to keep several of those trees that I started from 1-gallon containers, or I gathered from my yard and now they are my inspiration and I am sure that when the time comes and I have to part with my trees it's going to be difficult to see them go. So, my message to all of you that are in this hobby treasure what you have and keep them thriving. 

By now most of the repotting should be over for most, if not all, of your deciduous trees, a good percentage of your conifers and all that should remain is your junipers and azaleas.  I read an interesting article written by a professional from the Bay Area who said he actually repots year around but that he does not root prune when repotting out of the normal repotting season.  I thought about that, and it dawned on me that we do the same thing here, but we call it slip potting. I do this at least 3 to 4 times a year and it's the simple process of removing the plant from one container and placing it into another container (usually into a larger container) for the health of the plant.  I usually leave that plant in the new container for several years depending on what is going on with the tree. 

One of the mysteries that we all seem to face year after year is when to fertilize and with what?  There are so many different ways to answer those questions and there is no singular, simple answer.  I can only pass on to you what I do and what the professionals I have asked have told me.  For deciduous trees that are juvenile, and you are trying to build structure, or you are trying to get a flush of growth then you should start fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer (I like organic) from now until late fall.  If the deciduous tree has reached maturity, then you do not want to start until the tree leaves have hardened off (usually this occurs late May early June). then you start the regime of fertilizing till late fall.

If you are working with pines, you can start fertilizing the double flush pines (Black Pine and Red Pine) now and continue until about 30 days to decandling (for me that is 1 May) and refrain from fertilizing them again until late August or early September and continue till the first hard frost.  For single flush pines I do not start fertilizing them until after I pinch the candles and they have hardened off which usually is again late May or early June and then continue until the first hard frost in the fall. 

With that being said if pines are juvenile and you are trying to get rapid growth and promote more branching by all means fertilize from early spring to late fall.  I have found that in most cases it's better to over fertilize than to under fertilize.

For other plants such as junipers, cypress and other varieties I will start fertilizing in mid-April and every 2 weeks thereafter until late fall when we get a good hard freeze. I define a hard freeze as when the temp drops to the low to mid 20s, and the trees start dropping their leaves (not the frosts we get in early October).

On another note, I got a call from a member last week who said that he was already air layering.  I told him that was a big mistake.  The proper time to air layer varies from species to species, but most air layering is done just before or shortly after the tree's foliage hardens off.  So, I discourage anyone who is trying to air layer at this time. 

Have a great spring everyone!

LAVA/SOIL/PUMICE ORDER

Running low on ingredients to repot your trees? The club now offers not only lava rock but pre-sifted pumice and bags of pre-mixed soil. Please contact Kent R. and make arrangements to pick it up directly from him (971-236-3641 or warlordkentax@gmail.com.) 

PLEASE RETURN YOUR EMPTIED LAVA BAGS TO KENT FOR RE-USE

May 9th Meeting, Hands-on Deciduous Air Layering!

The purpose of this hands-on workshop/demonstration is to familiarize members with creating deciduous air layers. Members are encouraged to bring their own tree and the following materials listed below. Guest artist Mark Goodman, along with experienced club members will be on hand to help you create your own air layer. If you have any questions prior to the meeting please contact Corey or Mark.  (Click a name to write an email.)

To be a hands-on participant, you’ll need to bring the following to the meeting (including a deciduous tree with a branch or trunk larger than your thumb to air layer):

• Grafting or razor knife. A sharp thin blade used to cut through the bark and into the cambium layer.

• Pliers, used after the circumference cuts are made to loosen bark.

• Plastic wrap or small nursery container, used as a means to hold sphagnum moss or other rooting medium in place while roots develop. Must be larger enough to encompass the trunk.

• Sphagnum moss (1 gallon bag), used as a medium to develop roots.

• Container, used to moisten sphagnum moss.

• Light gauge wire, used to secure bag or small nursery container.

• Powder rooting hormone and brush, used to promote root growth.

• Dip and Grow (Optional), an alternative to powdered rooting hormone.

• DMSO (Optional), used as a supplemental accelerator with “Dip and Grow” rooting hormone. Ratio = 1 part Dip and Grow, 5 part water, 5 part DMSO

• Electrical tape, used to further secure the bag or container.

• Duct tape, when all else fails use duct tape.

• A deciduous tree with a branch or trunk larger than your thumb to air layer.

Alternative materials could include akadama as an alternative to sphagnum moss and channel locks used as an alternative to pliers on larger diameter material to help loosen bark.

This is only a suggested material list. Many viable techniques are used to execute a successful air layer and additional materials may be required for these alternative methods.

Anatomy of a tree | US Forest Service (usda.gov)

July Auction, Saturday July 13th at the Lacey Senior Center

The July auction will soon be upon us.  Now is the time to start thinking of trees, pots, or other supplies you might want to donate or sell through the club.  Preparation for the auction will begin at 6 pm and the auction itself will start at 7 pm.  

As a teaser, the Saikei landscape of junipers that Lee Cheetle made right before our eyes at the April meeting will be auctioned off to benefit the club.  It includes a custom, hand-made slab with landscape rocks to match.

Beginners Workshop

One slot left for the beginners workshop. We also need volunteers. Contact Kent warlordkentax@gmail.com or 971-236-3641

Cost: $50 cash or check. Dates: 6-9pm May 23rd, 24th, and 30th Location: North Olympia Fire Station.  Junipers: Provided.  Wire: Provided. Tools: Available to borrow.

May 18th Workshop

Bring your trees to the North Olympia Fire Station to work on spring maintenance with the guidance of your club colleagues or to crowdsource advice on what to do next with a puzzling tree.  Saturday workshops are held at the North Olympia Fire Station, 5046 Boston Harbor Road from 10 am to 2 pm.  Contact Matt C to volunteer.  Help is always needed with opening and closing the room.

New Board Members

Thanks Alex W., Corey M., and Dennis B. for joining the board. For anyone else interested, we still have open seats, please contact any board member. The more board members we have the less work we all have to do.

ChibiChibi Con

The Evergreen State College’s annual Japanese animation and culture convention is Saturday May 25th in the Gymnasium from noon to 8pm. The Olympia Bonsai Club will have a table to show off our trees and advertise our organization. If you’d like to participate, contact Kent warlordkentax@gmail.com or 971-236-3641.

What to be working on now, thanks to Joe K

For many of us this has been quite the spring.  I still have trees that have not fully leafed out and one that may not as it may have expired.  I was discussing that with a friend and he mentioned to me what the life span was of the tree and I couldn't answer the question because I simply did not know.  So I went and did some research and discovered that it had passed its life expectancy by quite a few years and as I kept digging I was surprised that this is really true with most fruiting trees which really opened my eyes.  In any case I don't feel  quite so bad.

The following tasks are normally what we should be doing in mid to late May and into June.  These are only my guidelines but the final decision has to be made by the individual owner who knows his or her plant the best.

Non-Japanese 2 needle pines should have there buds cut or snapped off, I personally prefer to snap my buds as it seems to get a more better looking break on the candle once it heals and opens up but doing this on a large plant can take some time vs cutting with scissors. I do not remove the entire bud but tend to shorten rather than remove the entire bud.  Again I leave that decision up to the individual plant owner.

 It is also the best and final time to pluck or remove buds from the short needle conifers such as Hemlocks, Fir and Spruce.  These buds should be removed as soon as possible after the buds have that "fuzzy Egg" look.  If you have true cedars and any Yews you should have their strong buds pinched before they fully open.

Any Pinching back of buds on Maples and Beech should be drawing to a end  but again that is dictated by the growth of your trees in your particular environment.

You should consider stopping the fertilization of any of your Japanese Black Pine if you plan on cutting the candles by the first of June.  If your pines are still in the juvenile stage you can continue to fertilize the tree.  

It's going to be a long hot summer so I encourage you now to set up shady areas for your less tolerant plants and set up a watering plan and perhaps rearrange how you have your plants in the yard.  If you are gone for long periods of time you may want to consider setting up a timed automatic watering system.  Cole gave a great presentation on how to set one up last summer and perhaps he may be willing to help you out.

In any case I'm hoping that summer quickly arrives and we get some warmer weather. 

LAVA/SOIL/PUMICE ORDER

Running low on ingredients to repot your trees? The club now offers not only lava rock but pre-sifted pumice and bags of pre-mixed soil. Please contact Kent R. and make arrangements to pick it up directly from him (971-236-3641 or warlordkentax@gmail.com.) 

PLEASE RETURN YOUR EMPTIED LAVA BAGS TO KENT FOR RE-USE

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Event

Date

Time and Location

May Meeting

5/9

7PM / Lacey Senior Center 

May  Workshop

5/18

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

May Beginner’s Workshop

5/23, 24, 30

6-9PM North Olympia Fire Station

June Meeting

6/13

7PM / Lacey Senior Center 

June  Workshop

6/22

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

July Meeting

AUCTION!

7/13

6 PM Bring your Auction items

7 PM Auction begins / Lacey Senior Center

July  Workshop

7/20

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

August

No meeting or workshop

September Meeting

9/12

7PM / Lacey Senior Center 

September  Workshop

9/21

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

October Meeting

10/10

7PM / Lacey Senior Center 

October  Workshop

10/19

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

November Meeting

11/14

7PM / Lacey Senior Center 

November Workshop

11/23

10 AM - 2PM  /  North Olympia Fire Station

December

No meeting or workshop

Officers

President Sam L.                       509-432-9538                     

Vice President Darrell A.         360-701-2316

Secretary Kent R.                      971-236-3641

Treasurer Eduardo M.             619-991-2581

Workshop Volunteer Coordinator

Matt C.                                              360-480-0420

Past President 

Gerry O.                                            360-593-6620

Board of Directors

Cole N.                                        360-789-0442  

Matt C.                                        360-480-0420                    

Corey M.                                     503-708-4890

Alex W.                                        419-602-7514

Dennis B.                                    360-789-1355

Webmaster

Volunteer needed

Librarian 

Volunteer needed                                       

Newsletter

Beth R.                                           360-464-7811